What began as a quiet runway moment in Milan quickly grew into one of the most talked about fashion incidents of the year. When Prada presented a pair of leather sandals during its Spring/Summer menswear show, fashion insiders quickly noticed the similarities to Kolhapuri chappals India’s centuries old handmade leather footwear with deep cultural and regional meaning.
The reaction was swift. What Prada first presented as simple leather sandals was, to many, an obvious representation of a craft founded in generations of Indian makers from Maharashtra and Karnataka. The issue was not inspiration itself fashion has always borrowed across cultures but the absence of approval, attribution, and economic inclusion.
Kolhapuri chappals are not just a design; they are a legally protected cultural product with a Geographical Indication (GI) tag. Each pair is typically handmade, sewed without nails, and crafted by makers whose skills are carried down through families. In local Indian markets, these sandals sell for a few hundred rupees a stark contrast to luxury fashion pricing.
As images of Prada’s sandals went viral online, opposition grew louder. Residents, activists, politicians, and fashion reporters asked how a global luxury house could profit from a standard design without openly understanding its origin or involving the people behind it. The conversation quickly grew beyond Prada, bringing back long standing discussions around cultural reproduction, intellectual property, and ethical fashion.
Facing growing tension, Prada finally acknowledged that the design was inspired by standard Indian Kolhapuri footwear. The brand displayed its respect for skilled workers and indicated a plan to engage directly with workers. What followed marked a shift from silence to conversation.
Prada staff visited Kolhapur to observe the making process firsthand and meet local workers. Soon after, a formal contract was signed with two state backed leather creation businesses representing workers from Karnataka and Maharashtra. The outcome? A limited collection of Kolhapuri sandals made by Indian makers is set to be sold worldwide through Prada’s retail channel beginning in early 2026 However, the collaboration came with a serious restriction.
Despite the international introduction and luxury pricing apparently equivalent to tens of thousands of rupees per pair the agreement does not yet include profit sharing for the workers. While workers involved are being paid higher daily rates and offered training options, they will not receive a share of the profits earned from global sales. Officials have stated that a second phase of agreements may address this, but for now, the lacking of profit ownership remains a key worry.
At the same time, Prada announced a limited “Made in India” line of Kolhapuri inspired sandals, produced in India and sold in select Prada stores worldwide. The project is presented as a multi year partnership that includes skill improvement, global awareness, and training programs including possibilities for workers to engage with Prada’s design system.
Still, critics argue that visibility alone is not equity. Paying a higher salary is an advantage, but without shared ownership or long term economic rewards, many see the partnership as unfinished. The dispute has also revealed challenges in how standard crafts are safe under worldwide creative property laws, mostly when it comes to design more than identity.
More broadly, the Prada Kolhapuri moment represents a turning point in fashion. Consumers today are more informed, more vocal, and becoming unable to accept surface level “inspiration” without responsibility. Heritage is no longer just a visual symbol it carries history, labor, and identity.
For luxury brands, the point is clear: engaging with historical crafts calls for more than passion. It requires approval, respect, and fair participation. Whether Prada’s partnership grows into a truly profitable model remains to be seen, but the debate it caused is already changing how the industry engages with cultural heritage. In an era where fashion sets itself on storytelling, the most powerful narratives may be the ones that make sure everyone connected gets to share in the success.
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